Posted by: musinganorak | August 12, 2010

You Built A Brewery Where?

Holiday Musings – Day 10

Our second day in Berlin was to be spent hunting down some more of the numerous brewpubs within the city. Having concentrated on the centre of the city yesterday today we would be venturing further afield. The one thing that strikes you about the brewpubs here is that some of them are built in slightly offbeat locations.

The first port of call was Lindenbräu, a traditional enough looking establishment except for the fact that it is sited in the very high-tech Sony Centre just off of Potsdamer Platz. It’s other notable feature is the fact that the brewing copper is actually made of sterling silver, the only one of it’s kind in the world. They only brew one beer, Hefe-Weiss. The other draught beers come from the parent brewery.

Next up was the third brewpub in the Lemke family, this time out in Charlottenburg. Now I don’t particularly like to promote stereotypes, but, upon leaving the station we consulted our map to get our bearings. At this point a middle-aged woman came over to see if we needed any help and I gave her the name of the street we were loking for. Queue much muttering and poring over the map. I then said it was a brewpub we were trying to locate and the reaction was instant – Of course she knew where it was, just down this road on the right, obviously. I’m not going to say anything about Germans and beer….

Her directions were spot on! The same bierkostprobe was available and this time the selection was Original, Pils, Hefeweizen and the seasonal, Zwickel. Yet again, despite the seeming overlap in beers, the taste was different from last night suggesting that they do indeed all brew at their own locations. We had lunch here and I had the most incredible flammenkuchen, a sort of French/German pizza, that I have ever tasted.

When we finished here we headed off to the Spandau area of the city, location of the old Spandau Barracks. A short walk from the nearest station is the laundry building of the old barracks and home to Brauhaus in Spandau. Brewing was in progress when we arrived and the smell was wonderful. They had two beers available; Havelbräu, 5.2%, and their seasonal beer Landbier. This was the only ABV I managed to find for any of the draught beer I drank in Berlin.

Next up, another railway arch. This one was in the Tiergarten district and is home to Brewbaker. This brewery is unusual in that it has done the unthinkable in Germany and opted to ignore the Rheinheitsgebot, the German Purity Laws. This is no bad thing, in my opinion, and it allows the brewer to experiment with a much wider range of ingredients. Unsurprisingly, the beers here were amongst the best we had in Germany. The three beers available when we were there were Bellevue Pils, Summer Stout and Red Monkey.

From here we headed to the Wedding district to find Eschenbräu, a brewpub located in the basement of a block of flats! We found the entrance around the back of the flats and took the stairs down in to the bierkeller. Inside we met up with another English family with their copy of the Good Beer Guide to Germany on the table. Pils, Dunkles and the seasonal Schwarze Molle were available here and the schwarz was particularly good.

We finished the night in more conventional premises at Hops & Barley, another brewpub that pays no heed to the purity laws. Our day’s drinking finished here with four beers, Pilsner, Dunkel, Weizen and their seasonal, Böhmisch Braun. And that concluded our beer drinking in Berlin. 10 new breweries sampled with at least 4 more that we didn’t have time to visit. It’s always good to have a reason to go back!

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